How to Preserve Your 105 mm Wooden Ammo Crate

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How to Preserve Your 105 mm Wooden Ammo Crate

Brief History about the Howitzer Vintage Military Wood Ammo Crate

Introduced in 1942 for the brand-new M2/M2A1 105 mm howitzer, the two-round wooden crate standardized American artillery packaging for the rest of WWII. Each shell rode inside a fiber container; two tubes slid into a pine or oak box measuring roughly 40 × 14 × 9 in. and weighing 126–132 lb loaded.

  • WWII production boom (1943-45). Army Ordnance depots such as Rock Island and private contractors cranked out hundreds of thousands of boxes a month; lot codes, weight/cube data, and yellow stenciling met War Department specs.

  • Korea & early Vietnam. The same rope-handled crates, now sporting NSN 1315-00-028-4857, kept 105 mm HE M1 rounds moving up the hills of Pusan and later into Vietnamese firebases. Field manuals as late as 1954 still reference the two-round wooden box as standard issue.

  • Phase-out. By the late 1960s the Army shifted to steel and fiberglass M548 containers, but thousands of wooden originals survived in depot storage—exactly the kind now showing up on the surplus market.

Know the Box 

  • Dimensions: ~37" L × 12" W × 8" H exterior, thick hardwood boards joined with steel strap hinges.

  • Handles: Marine-grade rope designed for two-man lifts; never cut them off—original cordage adds value.

  • Markings: Lot codes, shell type, and depot dates—snap photos before cleaning so you can track any changes.

Quick Pre-Inspection Checklist

  1. Check for active insect holes (fresh, light-colored frass).

  2. Smell for mildew; a sour odor means hidden moisture.

  3. Wiggle hardware—loose screws hint at wood shrinkage.

How to Clean Your Vintage Ammo Box

 

Step

Method

Notes

Dry Dust

Soft nylon brush, vacuum on low

Work with the grain.

Spot Wash

Distilled water + a drop of pH-neutral soap

Damp-wipe, then towel-dry immediately.

Metal Bits

#0000 steel wool only on rusted steel; keep off stencils

Oil hinges after cleaning.

 

Avoid soaking, pressure-washing, or bleach—they drive water deep into end-grain and erase markings.

How To Preserve Your Crate

Best Conditions to keep it:

  • Target RH: 50 % ± 5 % (45–55 %) for most climates; 35–40 % acceptable in arid zones, 55–60 % coastal max. Above 70 %, mold and hardware corrosion explode. 

  • Temperature: 55–70 °F, kept stable.

  • Light: <200 lux; UV filters if you display the lid open.

  • Monitor: Cheap thermo-hygrometer beats guesswork. 

Seal & Protect With Microcrystalline Wax:

After the wood is bone-dry, burnish a microcrystalline paste wax (e.g., Renaissance) over the exterior boards and metal. It forms a moisture-blocking film and buffs to a low-sheen finish that won’t yellow or attract dust. Two thin coats beat one thick glob—buff after 30-60 minutes. 

Do NOT wax bare, unfinished interior boards; the wax sinks into pores and is almost impossible to reverse. 

Hardware & Rope Handle TLC:

  • Drip a spot of light oil on each hinge pin and hasp.

  • If the rope is fraying, wrap with waxed linen thread—never replace unless it’s fully severed.

  • Tighten loose flat-blade screws only; Phillips screws are a post-war tell.

Storage & Display Hacks:

  • Elevate the crate two inches off concrete with wood blocks.

  • Toss in a silica-gel pack and swap it every six months.

  • If you mount the lid open for display, add a 1⁄8" acrylic sheet inside to deflect dust without hiding markings.

What to Avoid:

 

Mistake

Why It Hurts

Polyurethane or glossy varnish

Seals in moisture, kills patina.

Power-sanding

Obliterates wartime stencils and softens edges.

Rapid RH swings (30 % → 70 %)

Can swell boards 2 %, popping joints.

 

Need an Authentic Crate?

Own a piece of that lineage: Our GI 105 mm Wooden Ammo Crate with Rope Handles comes straight from U.S. stocks—battle-worn boards, OD-green hardware, and genuine depot stenciling intact. 

Each crate ships unlined and unsealed so you can apply the exact preservation steps above.